A loop of the Ngamoko Tops is an all-seasons option with bush-clad ridges, sensational views and convivial river valley walking. There’s a good chance you’ll spot a kārearea or whio, too.  Culinary Advisor and I enjoyed an easy stroll from the carpark down a wide farm track to a coat hanger bridge over Umutoi Creek. From there, we crossed into Ruahine Forest Park. After another 20 minutes we arrived at Tunupō Track junction. Tunupō Track ascends a long spur through beautiful bush with a pattern of ‘climb… taper off, climb… taper off’. It emerges into the alpine zone – about…