“Rangi Hut” is an easy walk for families and ideal frontcountry refuge with views from Ruahine to Ruapehu. The hut must be booked, affording frontcountry trampers the security of a bed.
From Renfrew Road, an easy benched track with thoughtful interpretation panels sidles an unnamed stream more than 100m above its gorge. The track gains a slip, only to drop to one of this region’s distinctive, impressive wooden arch bridge that straddles the stream. A plaque commemorates the bridge’s opening in 1988 by the then Minister of Conservation, the Rt Hon Helen Clark. You’re now halfway to Rangiwahia Hut.
The track now climbs more stridently to Rangiwahia Hut but, with only 300m to gain, it’s not hard going. The benched path also zig-zags so is comparatively forgiving for those who prefer something less physical.
The first Rangiwahia Hut—or “Rangi Hut”, as proclaimed by the sign over the door (a quaintness that now jars slightly)—was established as a ski hut in 1935. Vintage skis that decorate its broad verandas add a fun, nostalgic character. A tow rope was even installed to pull skiers up the slope! These days, one can wistfully imagine the snow of the 1930s and 1940s that lured ski bunnies before the roads to Ruapehu were reliable.
The hut is a welcoming snug, with a fire and two dorms that sleep thirteen in total. Watching the sun set over the Central North Island volcanoes and Taranaki Mounga is magic.
Geographically, Rangiwahia Hut sits at the end of a long, tableland spur that points down from the Whanahuia Range like a near-flat finger. Such featureless, tussock ridges are characteristic of this part of the Ruahine Ranges. You can gain a better appreciation of this environment by completing the Deadman’s Track loop back to Renfrew Road.
The loop via Deadman’s Track takes 4.5 hours. It’s likely passable in any season, although might be reconsidered if winter snow and ice prevail and you don’t have the correct gear. Unlike the walk up, Deadman’s Track is mostly exposed.
It takes 1 hour to ascend the spur to the ridge of Whanahuia Range. Turn right at the junction onto Deadman’s Track and immediately gain Mangahuia (1583m). Enjoy views down into the Oroua Gorge 600m below and the atmospheric clouds most likely swirling about Mangamahue (1661m) and Te Hekenga (1695m) in the Ruahine backcountry beyond.
Spend the remainder of your tramp following Deadman’s Track to the carpark. Waratahs guide the trail. After the tussock comes the leatherwood, then the mountain cedar. There follows a flat, grassy trail, which may have been a former road. Carry on down through the podocarps and horopito for the final run to the carpark.
Need to know
Access: Drive to the end of Renfrew Road.
Grade: Easy.
Time, distance and ascent: Carpark to hut via Rangiwahia Track: 1.5hr, 4.7km, 545m climb. Hut to carpark via Deadman’s Track: 4.5hr, 9.8km, 443m climb. Total distance is 14.5km and total climb is 988m.
Accommodation: Rangiwahia Hut, $29-$35 per night, 13 bunks. Serviced and bookable.
Map: BL36 Norsewood
