It was a revelation to find Wellington’s Eastern Bays shelter one of the region’s most idyllic tracks—the Butterfly Creek Walkway. Several tracks lead to Butterfly Creek and can be stitched together to make pleasing loops. All start from Eastbourne, an established seaside community that is especially attractive in summer when pōhutukawa are in full bloom and warm(ish) waters lap the shore. Paths are well graded and suitable for nearly all abilities, and seats are placed at obvious viewpoints. We opted for the Muritai Park Track, one of three northern entrances. The ascent gains 200m in little more than 1km. On…