The up-and-down trip to Lagoon Saddle is on the shorter side—about 3.5 hours uphill if carrying a heavy pack and taking it gently, and three hours down. A five-minute uphill burst leads to Bealey Hut (late 1960s) before plunging into beech forest. The path is well formed and part of Te Araroa. Three long switchbacks lead to an exotic pine plantation, after which you step out into open country. Coming out of the pines, one feels like one’s ‘trekking’ rather than ‘tramping’. By that I mean the path is distinct and levelled—you can focus on the scenery rather than where…