It was a revelation to find Wellington’s Eastern Bays shelter one of the region’s most idyllic tracks—the Butterfly Creek Walkway.

Several tracks lead to Butterfly Creek and can be stitched together to make pleasing loops. All start from Eastbourne, an established seaside community that is especially attractive in summer when pōhutukawa are in full bloom and warm(ish) waters lap the shore. Paths are well graded and suitable for nearly all abilities, and seats are placed at obvious viewpoints.

We opted for the Muritai Park Track, one of three northern entrances. The ascent gains 200m in little more than 1km. On the day we visited the harbour shone like smooth turquoise, so it’s worth pausing to savour those glimpses that peek through the beech trees.

Keep right at junctions until you join Mackenzie Road Track at the ridge. There’s a lookout here, with glorious views towards Wellington.

Follow Mackenzie Road Track down to Butterfly Creek. Although much of New Zealand’s native bush faces pressure from pests or human activity, the forest here is in better health than at any other time in recent history thanks to the efforts of MIRO, the Mainland Island Restoration Operation. We got up close to a family of titipounamu and saw several kereru. Kārearea are also often seen here.

The path passes through truly magnificent stands of mamaku – as well as a few gigantic kahikatea – and comes to a T-junction. Turn left for an easy fifteen-minute stroll to the large picnic area. Although this is known as Butterfly Creek picnic area, it is actually sited on Gollans Stream.

A trip to the picnic area has charmed Wellingtonians for more than a century. Several tables are set well apart to give everyone space yet afford a sense of community and camaraderie. There’s also a composting loo! In the 1930s, a tea kiosk made from mamaku logs could be found here. It’s wonderful to imagine people gaily frolicking and splashing about, ready to exchange shillings for sammies and scones.

Evoking that history, we tucked into our own picnic and I threw myself into the swimming hole. It was brief, brisk dip, despite it being the height of summer and one of Wellington’s few truly hot days!

When it’s time to move on, retrace your steps to the T-junction, turn left and head uphill. It’s a short climb to gain the ridge, whereby you are rewarded with another sweeping view of Wellington Harbour. The path splits at the ridge—we followed the Bus Barn Track down to the Wahine Memorial on the foreshore. Alternatively, the Kowhai Street Track heads off the ridge for a shorter loop back to Eastbourne.   

Follow Muritai Road north along the coast and onto Eastbourne’s wide promenade. Villas with verandas, gables and gardens front the popular pebble beach, which is also a nesting ground for rare dotterels.

The promenade becomes Marine Parade. Follow this to the end and you’ll be walking down Karamu Street, towards Muritai Road, to complete your loop.   

Need to know

Access: Muritai Park Entrance, between 261 and 263 Muritai Road, Eastbourne

Grade: Easy

Time: 3-4 hours

Distance: 10km

Map: BQ32 Lower Hutt