Combat the chill and beat the crowds on New Zealand’s poster-child one-day walk—the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
8.15am, Mangatepōpō Carpark on a grey winter’s morning. I was making sure I had everything for a solo mish over the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, with plans for a side trip to the summit of Mount Tongariro, weather permitting.
Soda Springs is 75 minutes up Mangatepōpō Valley. I’d hoped the cloud hovering above may lift while navigating the otherworldly lava formations—I’d hoped it was a kind of morning mist, that creeps up valleys while the volcanic peaks stand radiant in blue skies above. Instead, the grey ceiling dropped lower… and lower.
At Soda Springs, you’ve gained an easy 250m vertical—and it’s only another 250m of huffing and puffing up the Devil’s Staircase to the rim of South Crater. Yup, a bit of a slog, but the staircase is much easier now than 20 years ago before there really were stairs!
South Crater looks like a volcanic crater but in fact is not. It was hollowed out by the ancient Mangatepōpō Glacier. Correctly, South Crater is “South Cirque”, ten thousand years older than surrounding volcanic features like Ngauruhoe that sprang to life 2,500 years ago.
Up in South Cirque, at 1650m, winds whipped at -7°C. Following the waratahs was like crossing an ice rink. Water had pooled on the path and frozen, and I headed towards slightly higher ground to avoid skating uncontrollably.
The plod up Red Crater was slow and cold. I covered my gloves with shell mittens. One step at a time, I got to the turnoff for Tongariro summit (1967m). Alas, there was zero visibility, so dismissed the idea of any deviation.
Red Crater (1868m) is the highest point on the Crossing. There was nothing to see—but clouds began to part on the way down. I put my helmet on for good measure, as it becomes a bit steep, though I still hadn’t found sufficient snow to warrant the axe and crampons.
I took lunch where nobody else was around. The aqua hue of the Emerald Lakes was striking against the white snows of Central Crater. From what I could see, the summit of Rotopaunga (1856m) looked worth a go.
On a summer’s day the Tongariro Alpine Crossing swarms with thousands of walkers, many of whom are woefully unprepared. Last time I was on the Crossing was with a Swiss friend who exclaimed, “I have never seen so many people in the mountains—and you know how Swiss people love to hike!” But on this day I was the first person over Red Crater, and looking down over a silent and undisturbed landscape. The scene really encapsulated that sense of inspiration that’s propelled this track to world fame over the last 25 years.
Rotopaunga was offtrack and relied on navigation. I came within 30m of the summit but gales and a formidable lava bluff forced me back to main track. It wasn’t a wasted effort, though, as the deviation provided spectacular views over Te Tatau Pounamu Wilderness Area – minutes away from the Crossing – which most never see.
It’s a 9km march off Mount Tongariro—almost half the length of the Crossing. It’s not steep, just never-ending, and my spirits were increasingly dampened by whippy wind and nippy rain. I was pleased to get to the loos at Ketetahi Hot Springs and change into my waterproof pants. Swirling clouds obscured any view of the springs but, 800m below, distant Lake Rotoaira inched closer with each step.
Finally, one reaches the bushline. It’s now less than an hour to the carpark and the scenery changes dramatically as you enter Ōkahukura Bush. Although the volcanic landscapes have long gone, there’s a sense of wonder as you pass this ancient forest of tawa and tōtara.
A final diversion to a pretty waterfall means you’re within ten minutes of the road end.
I’m pleased I made the trip. Sure, the snow and scenes generally weren’t much to get excited about—perhaps that made the fleeting views all the more special. I’d be keen to return in winter again. In fact, I mightn’t do it any other way.
Need to know
Access: Drive to Mangatepōpō Road end. 4hr parking restrictions in place from October through April at Mangatepōpō and Ketetahi Road ends, but shuttles are available.
Grade: Moderate – although this is highly variable depending on conditions.
Accommodation: Mangatepōpō Hut, $44/$25 per adult Great Walks season/off season, 20 bunks
Distance and ascent: 22.6km, 1,287m ascent
Time: 8hr
NZ Topo 50: BH34 Raurimu, BH35 Turangi
