Taratahi Mount Holdsworth stands at the eastern end of the Tararua Range and is the most accessible major peak in Tararua Forest Park. A trip to the summit can be done in a day and doesn’t require the same level of experience as do other tramps in the park.
Lachlan McKenzie, Wilderness Magazine
Find the write-up for this trip in the May 2021 issue of Wilderness Magazine or read on for the full encounter!
A trip up Taratahi Mount Holdsworth begins at Holdsworth Campsite, where excited trampers step out in all directions—towards Totara Flats, the Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit, Mid Waiohine Hut and beyond. It’s a gorgeous spot, where tūī flit from copse to copse beside the cool waters of the Atiwhakatu Stream.
There are several routes to the summit, all of which start by crossing the footbridge over the Atiwhakatu Stream. The most popular is the Gentle Annie Track, as well formed and graded as any Great Walk. Instead, we headed 4km up the Atiwhakatu Valley to the East Holdsworth Track—1000m of climb straight out of the Atiwhakatu Valley and onto the tops.
On arriving at the East Holdsworth turnoff, we found the track closed. It wasn’t a problem—we simply retraced our steps a few hundred metres and headed up River Ridge Track. River Ridge Track climbs from terrace to terrace and was as close as we got to ‘good, honest Tararua tramping’. Still, it wasn’t unduly onerous and, being a bit more rugged than the Gentle Annie, was also more fun. We arrived at Mountain House shelter 40 minutes later.
As day walkers, we didn’t have the burden of heavy packs and it took three hours from the carpark to reach Powell Hut, including several snack and photo stops along the way. The track from Mountain House is now well appointed with steps all the way to Powell Hut—quite the contrast from my first time up there nearly 20 years ago. What hasn’t changed, though, is the thrill of popping out of the bush and onto the open tops, where the raw ridges beckon irresistibly.
Powell Hut lies just above the bush line, with killer views of the Wairarapa Plain from its generous deck. This is the fourth hut on this site and bookings are required for overnight stays. Ever-popular Powell is very much a hut for the masses, with 32 bunks separated into several bunk rooms of various sizes. Its large common areas feel comfortable enough, if not a little sterile—perhaps because it’s still very new.
From Powell, it’s a good 45 minutes to the summit (1470m). The track becomes a well-trodden route marked by poles, leading one up through mountain daisies and other pretty alpine plants, and veering from several scree slopes. A panorama unfolds from Masterton to Cape Palliser. Things only improve at the summit, where a full 360-degree view unfolds, with the main range of the Tararuas rising to the west—its tops are often obscured by cloud—rising above the deep gash of the Waiohine Gorge. To the north are the 1500m peaks of Angle Knob, McGregor and Three Kings. To my surprise, we had the summit to ourselves. More surprising still was that there wasn’t a breath of wind!
Back at Mountain House, we decided to follow the Gentle Annie Track. From here, it’s 6km back to Holdsworth Campsite and, given the long day, we didn’t mind some lizard-brain walking! About halfway down the Gentle Annie, the well-signposted Rocky Lookout provides a terrific view of Taratahi and, indeed, the entire Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit. It’s a perfect place to pause before the final plod to the car.
A trip up Taratahi has so much going for it—amazing views, a short traverse along the tops, a choice of routes, the possibility of overnight options—all of which makes it ripe for piquing the imagination of those new to tramping. But it is a hike to be taken seriously. Prepare for the mountain environment and fickle weather, and make sure to carry plenty of water—there isn’t anywhere to fill up along the way, and it’s recommended that water at Powell is boiled before use.
A version of this story first appeared in Wilderness Magazine (May 2021). Content is strictly copyright—please email hutbook@frontcountrytramper.nz for queries.
Need to know
Drive to Holdsworth Campsite at Mount Holdsworth Road end
Grade: Moderate
Time: This is a long day hike that will take 8 hours return. You can make this an overnighter with a stay at Powell Hut ($20, serviced). Bookings required year round; book online through the Department of Conservation.
Distance: 20km return
Map: BP33 Featherston, BP34 Masterton