It’s not hard to see why the Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit is a Tararua classic. It’s accessible, reasonably straightforward, and serves up a taste of everything from lush valleys to panoramas of rugged peaks. There are three huts—Powell, Jumbo and Atiwhakatu—and this short loop can easily be done in two days.
Whether you go clockwise or anticlockwise may depend on the forecast and hut availability. In either case the track starts gently, passing Holdsworth Lodge and over the glassy waters of the Atiwhakatu Stream. We headed towards Atiwhakatu Hut, beautifully sited in a small clearing on the valley floor, a stone’s throw from the stream. At an easy two hours from the road end, Atiwhakatu Hut is the perfect place to bring children or newcomers to the great outdoors.
The track to Jumbo swings hard left. A steep, 700m vertical climb up Raingauge Spur arrives rudely and sees one scrambling up a stairway of rocks and roots. Take your time and enjoy the changing vegetation, from mature podocarps in the low valleys to red and silver beech nearer the bushline. Then—just as you pop into the open—Jumbo Hut appears. Clean and cosy, the balcony boasts sweeping views across the Wairarapa plain. The ropes that tether the hut to the hillside give some clue as to how wild and windy it can get up here. Behind the hut the chiselled peaks of McGregor, Broken Axe Pinnacles and Three Kings turn to silhouettes as night falls.
Our second day saw us setting out over the tops. Climbing higher through the tussock, the track soon makes its way onto a ridge where outcrops make great stops for adventure snaps. On Jumbo (1405m) the track comes to a T-junction—take the well-marked route towards Mount Holdsworth, which dominates the skyline to the south. Although it’s only a few kilometres along the ridge, this section is very exposed and can be slow going. It’s said that the tops of the Tararuas are clear less than two-thirds of the time, so expect mud, even in the best conditions. Luckily, we were treated to an absolute cracker day and, under blue skies, this was definitely the most exhilarating and rewarding section of the tramp. Sharp eyes can pick out both the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea.
Mount Holdsworth (1470m) is the highest point on the Circuit and the southernmost peak in the Tararua’s East Range. The summit offers sweeping views from Mount Hector to Mitre and beyond, with the Waiohine gorge cutting a deep gash between the Main and East ranges. It was the perfect spot for a bit of lunch and a sunbathe.
From Holdsworth summit it’s a 30-minute descent to busy Powell Hut, which has an equally-commanding view over the Wairarapa plain as Jumbo Hut. The path from Powell down to Holdsworth is extremely well maintained. Steps and grading erased my memories of a much tougher track in days gone by. It’s still a bit tiring on the knees, though, and historic Mountain House shelter—about halfway down—provides a welcome spot for a rest. From here you can drop straight back into the Atiwhakatu Valley down River Ridge track or carry on the well-graded Gentle Annie track. The Gentle Annie takes in Rocky Lookout, from where you can pick out both Jumbo and Powell Huts, and enjoy looking back over the entire Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit with a feeling of satisfaction.
Need to know
Drive to Holdsworth Campsite at the end of Mount Holdsworth Road. From the road end to Jumbo Hut is 5 hours; Jumbo Hut to Holdsworth summit is 3 hours; Holdsworth summit to carpark is 4 hours.
Grade: Fairly easy, although the climb up Raingauge Spur is moderate. The tops are exposed and prone to high winds. Do not attempt in poor conditions.
Total distance is 24km and total ascent is 1170m.
Accommodation: Jumbo Hut ($15, 20 bunks, cooking facilities). Book online through the Department of Conservation.
NZ Topo 50: BP33 Featherston, BP34 Masterton