The Travers-Sabine Circuit is a classic tramp in the heart of Nelson Lakes National Park. Circumnavigating the Travers Range, there are two large, stunning post-glacial lakes at, two unbelievably beautiful river valleys, and an awesome alpine pass.
You can super-size your tramp with optional add-ons to the sublime smaller lakes of Rotomairewhenua Blue Lake, and Lake Angelus. Rotomairewhenua is included in this write up.
Make no mistake—the Travers-Sabine is a big undertaking for the frontcountry tramper. Long days await and, with add-ons, you’ll walk over 100km. But it’s so, so worth it.
Huts must be booked through the Department of Conservation.
Day 1: St Arnaud to Lakehead Hut (10.3km)
The easy 2.5 – 3 hour Lakehead Track is a gentle entre to the main event. Lakehead Track skirts the eastern shore of Lake Rotoiti, with plenty of small, private beaches along the way. It’s well-groomed, too, and basically flat. You’ll spot Whisky Falls on the shore opposite.
An excellent beach just north of the Lakehead Jetty is nice to return to for a dip once you’ve dropped your gear at Lakehead Hut. The hut sits in grassland, about 500m south of the lake, with the big peaks of the Travers Valley beckoning beyond.
It’s possible to water taxi to the jetty or to nearby Coldwater Hut. Coldwater Hut is about 50 minutes from Lakehead Hut, provided the Travers River is crossable. Lakeside Track, around the western side of Rotoiti, is an alternative way to Lakehead Hut if you can cross the Travers River.
Day 2: Lakehead Hut to Upper Travers Hut (23km)
This is a long day up the Travers Valley—a solid eight hours on your feet.
Leave Lakehead across the golden river flats. Pay attention to track markers, which are less obvious in the long grass and low light.
After about 3 kilometres you’ll move into the beech forest proper. There’s soon a chunky grunt to sidle the Travers River before quickly dropping to the Travers Swingbridge, 90 minutes upstream from Lakehead Hut.
Cross over and spend the next three hours leisurely alternating between beech forest and grassland until you reach John Tait Hut. Pause to converse with the birds or admire the exquisite fungi—you’ll find the hours fly by.
John Tait Hut is a 27-bunk hut. Like Lakehead, it has the classic Nelson Lakes Design of two-storey bunks in an L-shape that surround a common area. It is beautifully sited on the Travers River… a lunchtime swim looked oh so inviting! Alas, I had to push on.
Beyond John Tait Hut
The track beyond John Tait becomes more technical. You’ll notice you’re climbing and perhaps negotiating a few rocks and roots too. Whereas the kilometres previously passed easily, the next two kilometres to Travers Falls are a good hour upstream.
The 15m cataract of Travers Falls is well worth a look. Just remember to drop your pack at the track junction to spare some energy—the path to the lookout and plunge pool is steep!
The track flattens again beyond Travers Falls until it crosses the Travers River. It then climbs, measured but noticeably, to Upper Travers Hut.
Upper Travers Hut appears across the tussocks, perched above the valley and surrounded by dramatic rocky peaks. It’s a commanding location for a hut.
Day 3: Upper Travers Hut to West Sabine Hut (11.6km)
Although not a huge distance, at 6 – 9 hours this arguably is the hardest day of the Travers-Sabine Circuit. In perfect conditions it took me 6.5 hours, although I enjoyed a long break on Poukirikiri Travers Saddle.
The track from Upper Travers Hut leads through leatherwoods and tussock. The terrain is dotted with boulders—true alpine territory. The track soon veers north and gains 200m of vertical as it scuttles onto the spur leading to Poukirikiri Travers Saddle. Some avalanche trails must be crossed—it’s not too hard but take care on the rocks. The walk onto Poukirikiri passes directly under the sheer, imposing south face of Mount Travers (2338m).
Poukirikiri is an obvious place to stop and catch your breath. You may wish to climb Pt 1837m above the saddle for full immersion, with views out to Kahurangi National Park. A tarn due south of Pt 1837m is also thought to be the source of the Travers River, and thus the mighty Buller River. Rainbow Pass is directly above.
It’s useful to know there is mobile reception on Pt 1837m.
A long way down…
It’s an extremely long, quad-busting descent to the East Sabine River, 1,000m below the saddle. At first, there are terrific views over the Franklin Ridge and Mahanga Range, and the route through the Travers Avalanche path is exhilarating. Once in the bush, it’s plain ol’ steep, steep, steep—it’s gruelling. Take your time to move carefully.
The roaring turquoise torrent of the East Sabine River marks the end of the descent. As I wrote in the hut book, “I had never been more pleased to see that river than had I been meeting Jesus!”
The track crosses a chasm almost immediately, the Sabine thundering below. It’s amazing—the chasm is so dark, deep and narrow that you can’t even see the river. An easy sidle follows before one final muscle-busting descent to Sabine Forks. It’s now a few minutes to West Sabine Hut, another hut of the Nelson Lakes design, to end this.
Day 4: West Sabine Hut to Blue Lake Hut (8km)
Rotomairewhenua Blue Lake is a “must do” if you’re in the vicinity. Cross the swing bridge just upstream of West Sabine Hut. Turn left and follow the track to Blue Lake.
Blue Lake Track is a more rugged track that the majority of the Travers-Sabine Circuit and presents three hours’ of incredible variety. Immerse yourself in the lands of friendly toutouwai (South Island Robin), grottoes and granite boulders that could be the territory of trolls, waterfalls and avalanche paths that stem from towering peaks—all the while tracing the pristine Sabine River.
The track climbs steeply beside its cataract near the top of the Sabine Valley. The path is surrounded by mossy forest, with water so pure you’d pinch yourself. You’re now approaching sacred Rotomairewhenua Blue Lake. Blue Lake Hut appears before the lake.
Rotomairewhenua and Rotopōhueroa
Rotomairewhenua must be seen to be believed. Its clarity of depth – some 70-80m – is thought to be the clearest natural freshwater in the world. Ringed by high peaks, it’s outstandingly beautiful. Its clarity is believed to be due to groundwater being filtered as it seeps through the huge earth dam holding back the much larger Rotopōhueroa Lake Constance.
Rotomairewhenua has become increasingly popular as part of Te Araroa, New Zealand’s trail. Concerningly, an invasive algae Lindavia (“Lake Snow”) – which is already present in Lakes Rotoroa and Rotoiti – could, without your due care, invade Rotomairewhenua causing irreversible damage. The Department of Conservation’s current strategy is “education” – which is crucial – but I’d like to see better infrastructure to help encourage trampers to admire the lake from a distance.
Less than an hour from Blue Lake Hut, much larger Rotopōhueroa cannot be missed. Also sacred, Rotopōhueroa is a place of immense power—its deep sapphire waters, rimmed by turquose edges, constrast the blue opal of Rotomairewhenua. Surrounded by sheer peaks, you’ll likely have this spectacle to yourself and, when illuminated by sunlight, it’s as though Higher Powers have turned the lights on. Indeed, the clarity of Rotomairewhenua is believed to be due to water being filtered as it seeps through the huge natural earth dam that contains Rotopōhueroa.
Rotomairewhenua and Rotopōhueroa are often walked as a day trip from West Sabine Hut. However, I’d urge spending a night at Blue Lake Hut for time to truly appreciate our natural world and tāonga at their best.
Day 5: Blue Lake Hut to Sabine Hut (24.4km)
Dawn broke and I returned to Rotomairewhenua to say “Noho ora mai.” It was quiet… no one else was around. A lone kārearea (endemic falcon) circled above, searching for breakfast. I was sorry to leave.
It seemed to take ages to get back to West Sabine Hut—but perhaps that’s because I was tired and picking snowberries along the way. I was relieved to reach West Sabine and have a proper snack and break.
West Sabine to Sabine Hut
Sabine Hut is a good 16km downstream from West Sabine. The track isn’t difficult – it is well formed and very gentle in places – but is still a very, very long walk, especially from Blue Lake. That said, the Sabine River is strikingly beautiful. There are a few views over turquoise gorges and back to the Franklin Ridge, as well as a bit of grassland—but generally it’s flat, forest walking.
Nearly 20km downstream and the track heads steeply uphill, ascending 50m, from where you’ll sight Lake Rotoroa. Don’t be fooled—the lake is not as close as you think. The track wanders downhill for a couple of kilometres before crossing the Sabine River above another stunning gorge—one that’s pretty, and pretty narrow!
Having already walked for miles, the final plod to Sabine Hut seemingly takes forever. Grit your teeth and stick with it, as Sabine is a good 45 minutes away. The hut welcomes you on the shores of serene Lake Rotoroa. As a hut, this lakeside abode was perhaps my favourite on the Circuit.
You can choose to finish the Circuit here at Sabine Hut if you take the water taxi out to Rotoroa. This must be arranged in advance. Lake Rotoroa Track is closed.
Day 6: Sabine Hut to St Arnaud (20.4km)
The from Sabine Hut steps out along Lake Rotoroa’s shore. It’s a good 90 minutes of steady climbing through the bush to a smattering of tarns, where you may hear or see kākā.
From here, the track passes through native cedar forest—totally different to any ecosystem yet encountered on the Circuit. At times one must look carefully for track markers, as it’s easy to become distracted and the way can be vague.
The new Cedric Stream Footbridge allows for safe passage when waters are high but, as of February 2025, Hodgson Stream footbridge was out, which would be problematic after rain.
After this you climb gently to a beautiful wooden seat overlooking the Tasman Mountains. Lichen drips from every branch—it really is magical. Next, the saddle to Speargrass Hut – a good 4.5 hours from Sabine Hut – is just round the corner.
Twelve-bunk Speargrass Hut is a cutie, and a good lunch stop. It’s now just over two hours down Te Horowai Speargrass Creek to Mount Roberts Carpark. This rounds off with a short climb that will see you complete the adventure of a lifetime—the Travers-Sabine Circuit.
Need to know
Access: From Kerr Bay, St Arnaud, follow Lakehead Track to Lakehead Hut. Alternatively (and provided conditions are dry) start at Mount Robert Carpark and follow Lakeside Track. Water taxis are also available for pick-ups and drop-offs at Lakes Rotoiti and Rotoroa.
Grade: Challenging. Most of the Circuit is Moderate-Easy, although the Travers Saddle Route is hard. Blue Lake Track is also harder than the valley tracks or Speargrass Track.
Accommodation: Huts cost $25 per night and must be booked. Options are Lakehead Hut, John Tait Hut, Upper Travers Hut, West Sabine Hut, Blue Lake Hut, Sabine Hut, Speargrass Hut ($25); and Angelus Hut ($30). Bookings through the Department of Conservation.
Distance and ascent: About 81km with about 4,000m ascent. Side trips will be extra.
Time: 4-6 days.
NZ Topo 50: BS24 Mount Robert.
