My partner and I decided to try snowshoeing for our first time with Alpine Recreation. While technology has moved on from “tennis rackets on your feet”, the concept is the same—attaching a weird and wonderful contraption to your boots for easier passage in the snow. And it is sensational—so quiet, so smooth… so civilised a way to travel.
Day 1: Up to Rex Simpson Hut
It was a clear, crunchy morning in the Canterbury High Country and .Takapō (Lake Tekapo) was mirror-still as we journeyed up Lilybank Road. There were three people in our party—my partner, me, and our guide Pete. Pete’s trusty canine Cass also came along for the adventure.
We left Coal River carpark and skirted Mount Gerald Station using the easement. After 45 minutes we were heading uphill along the fence line towards Rex Simpson Hut. The slope was steady but not strenuous. About two hours after leaving the carpark, we were 500m up on the glacial terrace that runs down the western side of the Two Thumb Range. From here it was a 30-minute stroll along the flat 4WD track to Rex Simpson Hut.
We had lunch at the hut and then headed for Snake Ridge where we donned our snowshoes for the first time. A sea of white tranquillity unfolded below us—the Mount Gerald plateau on one side, and the quiet Camp Stream Valley on the other. Aoraki and Horokoau (Mount Tasman) stood majestic on the skyline behind the Hall Range.
At 1550m we peeled off the ridge to cross tiny Mount Gerald Stream, fed by the ice and snow. We summited Mount Gerald – much more a tabletop than mountain – then descended a gut to loop back to the hut. We arrived back at the hut four hours later, in time for a brew, sunset over the Southern Alps, and dinner by the pot belly stove.
Rex Simpson Hut was built in 1985 by Alpine Recreation’s renowned founder and mountaineer extraordinaire, the late Gottlieb Braun-Elwert (his Caroline Hut, in Aoraki National Park, has a similar construction). It was designed as a base for snowshoeing and Nordic ski activities, and a plethora of choices surround the hut. The hut sits at 1,300m and sleeps about 12 in two bunk rooms. An unlocked emergency shelter also sleeps two.
Day 2: Beuzenberg Peak
Trips can be tailored to whims. So, when Pete asked what we’d like to do for our day excursion, we suggested Beuzenberg Peak, a 2070m summit in the Two Thumb Range. This was “unfinished business” for my partner and me—we’d aimed to scale the peak five years earlier but were thwarted by a summer snowstorm.
We retraced our steps onto Snake Ridge and began the long and gentle ascent towards the skyline of the Two Thumb Range. There silence was superb—the only sounds were running water some miles away, and the soft crunching of snow under the snowshoes.
From Pt 1944, spectacular views of Mount Hope, Braun-Elwert Peak and, of course, Beuzenberg Peak lay ahead. Braun-Elwert Peak was named for Gottlieb and Beuzenberg Peak for veteran climber Erica Beuzenberg, who guided trips for Alpine Recreation—both of whom were taken early and both of whom I remember. Stag Saddle, the highest point on New Zealand’s epic Te Araroa trail, sits between Mount Hope and Beuzenberg Peak.
From Beuzenberg Peak, the Two Thumb Range stretches north and south and the white spire of Mt Sibbald stands tall in front of the Southern Alps. The Bush Stream backcountry lies below and the serrated Arrowsmith Range is also visible. Takapō sparkles far below.
To descend, we skirted the Ribbonwood face of Snake Ridge and made our way over the Mount Gerald plateau. The afternoon snow had softened—it was a tad thin in some spots, but didn’t spoil the fun.
We were back at Rex Simpson Hut eight hours after setting out, so a fairly long day on the snowshoes, but one I’d give anything to live again. We had walked over 16km. Cass must’ve covered three times that distance as she sniffed her way through every valley beneath Snake Ridge. She too would’ve been pleased to get back for dinner, whereby Pete served her the hare she caught earlier that day!
Day 3: Camp Stream Hut and out
On our third and final day we left the snowhoes at Rex Simpson Hut and enjoyed a diversion to Camp Stream Hut. Pete helped restore and helps maintain this hut, now a popular stopover on Te Araroa.
The hut, at 1233m, is in impressive, ‘big sky’ country, situated in front of the steep, shingly Richmond Range and smoothened Round Hill. At over a century old, this musterer’s hut is quite the contrast to comfy and cushy Rex Simpson Hut.
From here it was back to the car—an incredible few days over all too soon. I just hope we get to repeat snowshoeing some time. Having tried it once, I’m a convert.
Need to know
Logistics: Get yourself to Lake Tekapo and Alpine Recreation will provide all necessary transport, accommodation, food and essential gear for your trip. Check with the operator for availability and prices.
Grade: Easy
Accommodation: Rex Simpson Hut, private and operated by Alpine Recreation, but can be booked.
Distance and ascent: Variable, depending on choice, conditions and ability. Our trip was 42km and 1878m ascent in total.
Time: 3 days
NZ Topo 50: BY17 Mount Sibbald, BX17 Lake Tekapo
