Carrington Hut—Canterbury’s gateway to the wilderness

Carrington Hut has been a base for trampers and climbers to Arthur’s Pass for nearly 100 years. Encircled by peaks at the confluence of the White and Waimakariri Rivers, Carrington is a great place to draw inspiration for future adventures.

It’s a 19km tramp up the Waimakariri River to the hut. If flows are low, start at Klondyke Corner and walk up the river. Otherwise, use O’Malley Track as far as Anti Crow Hut, 8km upstream, and possibly further. This alternative makes for an easy walk, first through bush, and then cutting a route direct across vast Turkey Flat, the Jordan Stream’s broad alluvial fan.

Jordan Stream, upper Waimakariri Valley

From Anti Crow Hut, the track crosses the Anti Crow River to a rocky point with a panorama of the upper Waimakariri Valley. The colours and alpine grandeur reminded me of Fiordland’s Key Summit, albeit with less drama. Still, this ‘minor key’ summit is impressive.

Tarn at an ancient glacial terminal in the Upper Waimakariri Valley

A light descent leads to the turquoise Waimakariri. Here, a high-water route continues along the true right bank – but check the DOC alerts before using this, as it can be impassable. Most likely you will need to cross the Waimakariri and follow the true left bank towards a bluff, and you may prefer the easy bush-bash over the bluff to find a safe crossing. You want to be on the true right bank of the river by the time you get to Harper Creek.

Upper Waimakariri Valley, true right bank

From here to Carrington Hut, one is increasingly enclosed by steep and snowy summits. Greenlaw and Harper Creeks add interest and a chance to fill the water bottle. Easy and forgiving terrain combined with beech forest and grassy river flats make for glorious tramping territory.

Carrington Hut appears suddenly, a welcoming sight in an attractive clearing. Its bright porch is a great place to sunbathe, looking up to hulking Carrington Peak and its icy palisades.

The hut was named for Gerard Carrington, who helped instigate Canterbury Tramping Club, 99 years ago, in 1925. Carrington was a champion of the hut’s construction. Tragically, Gerard drowned in the Waimakariri before it was complete.

The new lodge dates from the 1970s. It has an unusual configuration by modern standards, with two separate wings—one for the boys, one for the girls—each sporting two bunk rooms. Both wings get a common room, but only one area is blessed with a wood burner. The hut also has a radio to contact Park Headquarters.

Carrington Peak from Carrington Hut

From Carrington, opportunities for adventure avail in many directions: Harman and Whitehorn Passes, Barker Hut, and Waimakariri Falls. In any case it’s worth strolling up the pristine White River to Clough Cableway to admire the Shaler Range, even if a bigger trip isn’t on the agenda… yet.

For now, it’s time to relax—perhaps in that bunk with view of Carrington Peak—before returning to Klondyke the way you came.

Waimakariri River view, looking up Greenlaw Creek on the left, Mt Harper on the right

Need to know

Access: Klondyke Corner, SH73

Grade: Easy-moderate

Time: Klondyke Corner to Anti Crow Hut,  2-3 hours; Anti Crow to Carrington Hut, 3-4 hours.

Distance: 19km

Total ascent: 438m

Accommodation: Anti Crow Hut, $10 per night, 6 bunks; Carrington Hut, $25 per night, 36 bunks

Map: BV20 Ōtira

View through Carrington Hut window