The up-and-down trip to Lagoon Saddle is on the shorter side—about 3.5 hours uphill if carrying a heavy pack and taking it gently, and three hours down.
A five-minute uphill burst leads to Bealey Hut (late 1960s) before plunging into beech forest. The path is well formed and part of Te Araroa. Three long switchbacks lead to an exotic pine plantation, after which you step out into open country.
Coming out of the pines, one feels like one’s ‘trekking’ rather than ‘tramping’. By that I mean the path is distinct and levelled—you can focus on the scenery rather than where to place each foot. That said, you’re exposed, so make sure you’re prepared to proceed, be that with a sunhat and sunscreen or woollies and waterproofs.
Now, high above the Upper Waimakariri and Bealey Rivers, a glorious panorama unfurls. On a fine day, the snowy peaks of Arthur’s Pass National Park shimmer across the valley to the north. Angular peaks to the north and east morph into big, open, shingly mountains down the Waimakariri to the east. Standing in waving golden tussock, it’s a sight to behold.
Te Araroa traces Lagoon Saddle about 100m higher than the saddle and lagoon proper. This felt a tad frustrating in a way, as the shore of the lagoon is passable, and the next section along the trail through forest was riddled with windfall—we had to leave the track anyway and head for the lagoon.
If you get lost, head to the south end of the lagoon where the Harper River – a mere brook at this point – cascades through a rock cleft. You’ll quickly pick up the track at this point. Alternatively, cross the brook and head towards the historic Lagoon Saddle Hut, from which there is a clear trail to the Lagoon Saddle A-frame shelter. Note the two huts in close proximity, with somewhat confusing names!
Lagoon Saddle A-frame dates from 1983. It’s a lovely shelter at the north end of a clearing overlooking the Cragieburn Range. Really, it’s not far from the main highway but feels very ‘backcountry’. There’s plenty of water, too, in the stream – oops! I mean, Harper River – below.
I really enjoyed this place for its side-trips on offer. In the afternoon, I circumnavigated the lagoon, admiring the alpine plants and spotting a kea. We didn’t summit Mount Bruce (1,630m) but that’s well within reach too.
Next morning we explored Mid Hill Tarns, three small lakes above the hut at 1,600m altitude (allow four hours return). Their elevation offered a spectacular position from which to realise the contrast between the Southern Alps and the Craigieburns.
Returning from the shelter to Cora Lynn, we followed an easier route past Lagoon Saddle Hut to the southeast corner of the lagoon. From there, several open hillsides provide access up to Te Araroa—it’s far more pleasant than negotiating windfall again!
Need to know
Access: Drive to Cora Lynn carpark off SH 73.
Grade: Moderate.
Accommodation: Free.
Distance and ascent: 7km from carpark to Lagoon Saddle A-frame Shelter. 571m ascent.
Time: 3-4 hours.
NZ Topo 50: BV 20 Otira