Many who visit to Aoraki Mount Cook come to marvel at – and perhaps re-create – the Insta-recognisable views of the great peak from the Hooker Valley or Mueller Hut. The Red Tarns, cradled on the flanks of Sebastopol behind the village, provide respite from the masses. A little higher up are McNulty Tarns, more secluded still.
Follow the Red Tarns track across Black Bush Stream. Already, the Sealy Range towers above you. The track is well formed with steps the entire way. Don’t be disheartened—one must pause to enjoy the views over your shoulder that improve with every step.
It’s less than an hour to the Red Tarns, a set of small ponds 300 metres above the village. The tarns are named for curious insect-eating algae that bloom on the water’s surface. When we visited, it wasn’t only the tarns that had an ochre glow; the snow and ice on the Southern Alps had an orange hue due to ash from Australia’s seasonal bushfires.
Perched above the village, the terrain here is wild. A kārearea that had come to drink at the tarns made sure to check out our presence, soaring over us impressively before disappearing back towards Sebastopol’s rocky ramparts.
At 1,200 metres, McNulty Tarns are higher and wilder still. To get there, leave the boardwalk that loops around the Red Tarns and follow the path to the left of the scree slope. The unmarked route is obvious but stick to it—it is relatively easy to follow and keeps you away from the loose rock.
Aim for the large rock at the top of the ridge. Once there, veer east to find a cairn. Soon the untouched McNulty Tarns are revealed. A panorama opens up, from the pristine glaciers of Mount Annette to the grey Mueller Lake and chiselled peaks of the Main Divide, with Aoraki centre stage. To the east, the Tasman Valley appears far below and, in the distance, the peaks of the Upper Murchison.
Soak up the scene. Chances are you’ll be alone at this well-kept secret.
Need to know
Park at the Mount Cook Village Public Shelter on Bowen Drive.
Moderate—allow 3 hours round trip (approx. 5 km return). Highest point is 1200m. Total ascent is around 480m.
NZ Topo 50: BY 15 Birch Hill