Mount Matthews, Wellington region’s highest point at 941m, offers spectacular views. Cloaked in bush, yet sufficiently lofty to catch the odd snow, it’s a suitably demanding day hike within cooee of the capital.

The trip up Mt Matthews is in three sections of roughly equal distance.

The first and third are a nine-kilometre walk, beginning with the Ōrongorongo Track to the arch bridge over Turere Stream, from where you follow Big Bend Track to Turere Lodge, 10 minutes on. From Turere Lodge, it’s a half hour of easy walking to Whakanui Creek. Leave the track at Whakanui Creek and cross the Ōrongorongo River, which is passable unless in flood. Head for the first stream on the true left bank.

Matthews Stream is the first stream you come to and century-old Baine-iti Hut hides in the bush on its true right bank. A huge concentration of ramshackle huts and hideaways exist in the Ōrongorongo Valley and, like so many in this area, you’d miss Baine-iti if you didn’t know about it. Unlike others, Baine-iti is public, and would be a characterful place to bunk down for the night.

The triangle denoting the start of the Mount Matthews Track is somewhat hidden in a lone tree on the true left bank of Matthews Stream. The stream is also the last stop to fill your water bottle, so take the opportunity.

Thus begins the second, and most exciting, section of the trip. Here, the real work begins—a 750m vertical ascent and descent of Mt Matthews. After a ten-minute walk up the stream bed, it’s game on. That said, many will find the DoC signs of this part of the trip vastly overestimate times, at least for a day hike.

It’s a 400m ascent to the junction to windswept South Saddle, a 10-minute deviation. The saddle opens to great views over the Wainuiomata Hills and down Mukamuka Stream to Palliser Bay. However, you can get better views from a sizeable clearing on the track proper, 100m above South Saddle. You’ll even get a peep of Wellington Harbour and the city’s shimmering skyscrapers.

Beyond the clearing is a very steep section of track. Thankfully, it’s reasonably short, and you’ll soon be in cloud forest on the summit ridge. A couple of dramatic lookouts provide exhilarating views over the Matthews Stream and North Saddle with its sawtooth ridge. Mt Matthews’s summit has also been cleared, providing a great vantage point over Lake Onoke and one that contrasts Lake Wairarapa’s muddy brown shallows with Palliser Bay’s stunning blue depths.

The way back is as you came, but you can change things up by following the Ōrongorongo River back to the arch bridge—a slightly more direct route. The river crossings are very welcome on a warm summer’s day! Turere Lodge stands like a beacon in front of you and you’ll easily spot the arch bridge to pick up Ōrongorongo Track. From here, it’s an hour’s plod down the valley back to the car.

Mt Matthews is a significant and long day hike but not overly technical, and the length quite doable if you pace yourself. Also, if you’ve booked a night at one of the huts to break the trip on the way in or out then keep an ear out for kīwī that inhabit this area.  

Need to know

Access: Drive to Catchpool campsite, Coast Road, Wainuiomata

Grade: Easy-moderate

Time: 10 hours

Distance: 27km

Total ascent: 1,265m

Accommodation: DoC bookable huts in the Orongorongo Valley or Catchpool campsite. Various hut options including Turere Lodge, $110-$130 per night for up to 8 people booked through the Department of Conservation

Map: BP132 Lower Hutt