The scale of the landscape… exposed tussock slopes that seem modest from a distance are suddenly imposing yet compelling.
From the carpark, Greta Track passes an historic musterer’s hut, crosses Greta’s Stream, and immediately wends its way up enormous switchbacks. The switchbacks aren’t unduly steep, but it’s a consistent climb to the saddle, 6 kilometres beyond and more than 800 metres above the carpark.
For the first 2 kilometres, the track sidles the northwest shoulder of Ben Ōhau (1522m). The switchbacks continue up a steep valley before leading to the ridge that extends down from Ben Ōhau’s summit. The longest zig-zag reserved for the final approach to the saddle at 1360m, skirting the summit proper. Two hours is plenty of time to gain the saddle.
Take in the views of the Hopkins and Dobson River valleys as you climb. These braided rivers transport rock and rubble from the geologically young Southern Alps. Although common in Canterbury, braided rivers are unusual in the rest of the world. Here in New Zealand, vulnerable and critically endangered avian species like the wrybill (our only endemic plover) and kakī (endemic black stilt) respectively find their homes in these river systems.
Ben Ōhau’s summit can be visited by branching off at the saddle and following the fence line. Ōhau means ‘place of wind’ and, believe me, the saddle did not fail to deliver. We decided to stick to the track and have picnic at the high point, a sheltered spot at 1400m under the eastern flanks of the summit.
From here, Lake Ōhau and the sawtooth Southern Alps disappear behind you. Instead, the spartan Mackenzie Basin and smoothened Benmore Range reveal themselves. The track leads to a ridge that skirts a steep glacial face, 600 metres above the Ōhau Hydro Canal.
Arrive at the junction with the trail to Flanagan’s Corner, 10 kilometres from where you started and descend to the headwaters of Greta’s Stream. This, for me, was perhaps the most interesting part of the trip and feels completely different to the earlier ridge travel. In summer, pink rosehip blooms bright against an otherwise golden landscape of tussock and sharp blue sky.
In the valley, the track fords the chilly stream and its tributaries several times, descending gently to a stand of beech forest. This section is about 4 kilometres and features along the way include a rocky gorge and waterfall—as well as a few patches where one pushes scrub from one’s face or jumps the mud. Still, it’s a lonely place, and a place of extremes—one that could easily be hot as hell or unforgivably cold.
The beech forest signals the final ford and short climb to the glacial terrace overlooking Lake Ōhau. From here, it’s 3 kilometres back to the carpark at lake level, 200 metres below.
Although achievable and rewarding, this loop track is a big day. On completion, I rather suspect that many fellow Frontcountry Trampers will be glad to ditch their boots and head home for a beverage, duly satisfied with their efforts!
Need to know
Allow 5-6 hours.
From Twizel, follow Max Smith Drive and Glen Lyon Road to the Ōhau Canal control gate. Cross the control gate and follow Glen Lyon Road for 6km. When you return to the control gate, make sure that you are on the south bank of the canal.
Grade: Moderate
18km loop, 950m vertical gain.
NZ Topo 50: BZ15 Twizel