Doin’ time on the Dundas Circuit

The Dundas Circuit is a well-known two- or three-day tramp in the northern Tararua Ranges. It’s beautiful, hard, rough… and somewhat ugly in places. My buddy and I took three days and it was one of my most challenging tramps to date.

Putara Road to Herepai (2-2.5 hours)

It’s a quick hour of easy and near-flat walking alongside the upper Mangatainoka River to the second swing bridge. The swimming holes are alluring but probably not needed this early into the trip! The swing bridge is a good place to rest before a 45-minute uphill slog to the junction with the Roaring Stag track, where the Dundas Circuit eventually loops back on itself. All things considered, this is all fairly family-friendly, given the popularity of Roaring Stag Hut.

At the junction we headed north for Herepai Hut, about half an hour away. The track follows a gentle ridge before a brief hill. There’s a lovely lookout over the Ruapae catchment just before the hut.

Ten-bunk Herepai is a tidy hut, thanks to local volunteer efforts. You’re likely to find a space, unless a tramping party descends on the hut.

Frontcountry Tramper at Herepai Hut (2022)

Herepai Hut to Dundas Hut (7-9 hours)

From Herepai Hut, it’s not long until the bush thins and views are expansive. It’s a good 300m climb to Herepai (1125m), unremarkable from this approach but a definite “knob” when looking back from Ruapae (1279m), an hour beyond.

My tramping buddy on the way to Ruapae, with Herepai in the background

Ruapae offers spectacular views of your way ahead, first to East Peak and on to distant Pukemoremore. From here, things get fun. The ridge to East Peak (1355m) has a few skinnier sections falling into Harris Creek far below, before a short and heavy grunt onto East Peak. For me, this was some of the best tramping on the Dundas Circuit.  

East Peak (1355m) is a fantastic place to pause for a snack. It’s the turnoff to the intimidating and rugged Haukura Ridge, Chamberlain Creek is directly below, and the whole landscape of the Ruamahanga watershed comes into view. We took just under three hours from Herepai Hut. 

View from East Peak over Chamberlain Creek and upper Ruamahanga

The Dundas Circuit swings west to a deep saddle. It’s heartbreaking—all the effort spent climbing East Peak is thrown to the wind with a steep descent of 200m, only to face an equally steep ascent of the same magnitude to West Peak (1335m). Navigating the saddle takes some care and took 90 minutes.    

West Peak marks the north end of the Dundas Ridge. From here, the tramping is more straightforward but by no means easy. The ground trail rambles to Walker (1392m) but the approach to Pukemoremore (1474m) is rocky and scrambly, with steep drop-offs into Barra Stream. One must be aware the day’s most technical section occurs near the end, when you’re more likely to be tired.

Navigating the ridge to Pukemoremore

It took about three-and-a-half hours from West Peak to Dundas Hut—a modest six-bunker, is painted “rescue orange”. Apparently this hut has a spectacular view, with which I remain unacquainted. The descent from the top of the Dundas Ridge to the hut is very steep, so if you’ve any thoughts about going up Logan (1500m) then consider leaving your pack at the junction before bagging the hut!

Dundas to Cattle Ridge Huts

The sign at Dundas Hut turnoff suggests it’s a five-hour tramp to Cattle Ridge Hut. For the fast and fit this holds true. For folk like me it takes 1-2 hours longer.

The day starts well. Even with moody cloud hugging the hillsides, the descent to Dundas Creek is enjoyable, and one appreciates the scale of the surrounding landscape.

The Dundas Creek sidle is a demoralising discourse into tragic tramping. This is rough country, with roots, rocks and rivulets. At times it is unclear where the track goes, especially where windfall and water has taken its toll. All of this on the dark side of a deep gorge that eschews sun. Gloomy, you bet. Photos are not befitting of this environment.

It took us 90 minutes from Dundas Creek to the Ruamahanga River. We forded the cool currents and picked up the track opposite after some searching.

We’ve forded the Ruamahanga River!

From diabolical to diabolically steep, the track up Cattle Ridge gains 600m of vertical in less than a kilometre, with gradients of well over 30 percent. At the time it was overgrown, leaving one fighting flax, tussock and leatherwood at eye level, but it has since been cut in February 2024. It is a case of “one foot in front of the other” with frequent pauses, and I was grateful to be going up rather than down.

Me and our hunter friend look down from the Cattle Ridge Track into the gorge

Look out for the large orange triangle at the top of the scree slope denoting where the ascent finishes. Cairns mark the way for clag-enveloped trampers.

It took over six hours to do these few kilometres.

Read more about this section of the track

Cattle Ridge to Putara Road (7 hours)

The next morning was stunning. The sun crept above the horizon. Mist hung in the valleys and the tops shone golden.

The track from the hut wanders past a pretty tarn before heading straight down to Roaring Stag Lodge, 700m below. The way is steep and rough so it took us a couple of hours, although others will go much faster.

Looking into the Ruamahanga Valley from Cattle Ridge

Roaring Stag Lodge awaits on the far side of the Ruamahanga swing bridge. It’s a warm, inviting hut, one to which I hope to return. There we paused for morning tea then followed the easy – and often muddy – track back to the T-junction. This section looks rather mundane on the map but to my surprise really delivered—it was a gorgeous stroll through fine bush with some spectacular glades of ferns. 

Crossing the Ruamahanga to Roaring Stag Lodge

From the junction it’s back down the spur and Mangatainoka valley to the car. We shook off boots, gaiters and packs a little over 7 hours after setting out from Cattle Ridge Hut. For me, the variety offered on this day was also one of the highlights of the Dundas Circuit.

Need to know

Access: Drive to Putara Road end

Grade: Challenging. Herepai and Roaring Stag Huts are easily accessible. Otherwise, it’s crucial to appreciate distances aren’t far but the terrain is challenging, tracks are tricky, steep and technical in places – somewhat ‘extreme’ for frontcountry trampers. Kapakapanui, Burn Hut and Broken Axe Pinnacles circuits may be useful preparatory tramps.

Accommodation: Herepai Hut ($10, 10 bunks), Dundas Hut ($10, 6 bunks), Cattle Ridge Hut ($10, 5 bunks), Roaring Stag Lodge ($10, 12 bunks)

Distance and ascent: 32km, 2,947m ascent. Putara Road end to Herepai Hut – 6km; Herepai to Dundas Hut – 8km; Dundas to Cattle Ridge Hut – 6km; Cattle Ridge to Putara Road end – 12km

Time: 3 days

NZ Topo 50: BN34 Shannon

Sunlight on miro in the bush

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