A truly great day circuit with beautiful bush, swimming holes, and a bit of good ol’ fashioned puff!
The track begins confidently, heading past the Kiwi Ranch Camp before zig-zagging uphill. You’ll reach the junction with the track to Marchant Ridge and Alpha Hut within 20-30 minutes (this is the way you’ll return).
The gentle climb to Puffer Saddle is smooth, easy, and mostly shady—welcome on a hot summer’s day. Occasionally you’ll be treated to views over the Kaitoke and Pakuratahi Basin.
At 465m, Puffer Saddle is in fact a low pass in the North Island’s spine. From here, the track enters Smith Creek watershed, the waters of which flow into the Tauherenikau River, eventually emptying into the Pacific Ocean.
The track descends to the valley floor, crossing several streams—some of which are unbridged—and largely remaining at the same elevation. It winds through beautiful red beech and mamaku forest. The track could be difficult or impassable after heavy rain, due to the number of streams that could rise quickly.
As of late January 2022, the track had been recently cut. Near Fell Creek (just south of Smith Creek Shelter) a Department of Conservation sign that had been erected to advise of slips, and an alternative route around the slip, should be ignored. The section beyond does become a little tricky but frontcountry trampers should not be deterred—it is definitely passable, short, and hiking poles may assist.
Smith Creek Shelter is the ideal spot for a snack and swim. Here, the creek joins the Tauherenikau River, which turns east towards the vast Wairarapa Plain. I had my togs in tow as a precaution, but there was no need. Without a soul in sight, I stripped unabashed and soaked up the warm water—a welcome refresher before steep climb ahead.
My lunch stop was truncated when I discovered bumble bees are attracted to the colour blue and I fled with a resounding “Ouch!”. Just above the river is a nice spot for a bonfire and, although Smith Creek Shelter’s interior is somewhat sad and battered, there is a bunk platform that could sleep 8-10 if needed.
The ascent from Smith Creek Shelter to the ridge is steep—a nearly 450m vertical gain in approximately 1.5km. It’s more technical than the Puffer Track, too, with tree roots forming a ladder up some sections, and you have to be a bit more careful placing your feet. I enjoyed it, thinking this is a frontcountry taste of real Tararua tramping!
At the top of the ridge the views suddenly open north over the upper Tauherenikau River, Marchant Ridge, and south to the Rēmutaka Range. Occasional glimpses of the Wairarapa Plain shone through. This section was a real surprise—and perhaps the most delightful due to the changing vegetation and views. Allow 30-40 minutes to gain the ridge.
Dobson Loop Track meets Marchant Ridge Track at the site of Dobson Hut (1954-1994). The hut was removed due to vandalism, but the concrete fireplace remains. Turn south and follow the final leg of the Tararua Southern Crossing through red beech forest and back to the carpark.
My verdict as a frontcountry tramper? The entire loop took just over five hours and, with such variety and rewards, I think it an ideal choice for newer trampers who want to build confidence and test different tracks.
Take plenty of water but you can fill water bottles in Smith Creek or its tributaries.
Need to know
From SH2, turn into Marchant Road then right into Kiwi Ranch Road. Head to the end and find the carpark on your left, just before Kiwi Ranch. As you begin the track you will pass camp facilities—respectfully follow the track.
Grade: Moderate.
Smith Creek via Puffer Track is easy/moderate—it is benched and with steps through steeper bits. The section through the slip is short but requires some care. The ascent from Smith Creek Shelter to the junction with Marchant Ridge Track is steep and considerably more technical (‘moderate’). From the junction to the carpark is ‘easy’.
January 2022: The Department of Conservation before Smith Creek sign advising of the slips and alternative route is outdated—the track is open and passable.
Total distance is 14.25km and total ascent is 784m.
NZ Topo 50: BP33 Featherston
