The Ruamahanga River slices between Dundas and Cattle Ridge Huts as it drains the northern Tararua Range. The route is part of the wondrous Dundas Circuit… it’s also completely soul-destroying and unforgiving.

Dundas Hut sits at a lofty 1220m but within two kilometres you lose 500m to Dundas Creek.

I’ve heard the scenery here is spectacular. However, on a grey day, there was nothing too remarkable about this section. It’s “Tararua steep”, accompanied by the usual subalpine vegetation suspects.

You’re nearly at the creek when you arrive at a clearing.

It’s a quick scramble out of Dundas Creek and onto the sidle track. I hate Tararua sidle tracks as a rule—and this one lived down to my expectations.

Dundas Creek sidle

I had been unwell the previous afternoon at Dundas Hut, so was pleased our party had strengthened from two to three, onboarding a friendly hunter. He and my tramping buddy kindly helped shave weight from my load.

It took 90 minutes – probably longer – to cover the 1km from Dundas Creek to the Ruamahanga River. This track, deep in a canyon that eschews sun, can be hard to spot in places. It’s genuinely exhausting.

“Am I still on the track?” I asked.

“Hm… let me just look around down here. No, it’s over there,” my friends replied.

This happened more than once, particularly where windfall had occurred.

Now, I’m not one to indulge in sailor talk but I didn’t mince words: “This track is bullshit.” I didn’t care for it at all—I didn’t even take photos.

We stopped for a brew halfway along the sidle track. The track was exhausting but the warm fluids lifted my spirits, at least temporarily.

Back on the trail of mossy roots and rocks, I was slippin’ and slidin’, rockin’ and ridin’. Just as we approached the river, my feet went straight out from under me. I flipped head first, accelerating downhill and faceplanting into a stump.

“Are you okay?” my stunned friends asked, assessing the bloody grazes on my face. I think I must’ve looked like roadkill under my grossly overweight pack.

“Yes…” I responded meekly, somewhat dazed. “Just surprised!”

A short rope dangled to the Ruamahanga River. The crosswire has long disappeared, leaving no choice but a knee-high ford. Still, we managed this without drama and paused on the other side, grateful to be done with the sidle track.

Hence began the fabled ascent to Cattle Ridge.

Cattle Ridge climb

The climb gains 600m in less than one kilometre and takes a good two hours or more. The first 300m of vertical through bush was quite enjoyable. A few animal tracks wander off to each side, so one has to keep an eye out for the orange markers.

The bushline appears at 900m and things become far less fun. We found ourselves smacking through leatherwood, flax and tussock. This was straight-out scrambling. Stash your poles and they’ll only got tangled—better to keep hands free to brush overgrown vegetation from one’s eyes!

At last we emerged at the bottom of a rocky slope for the final 100m climb. The track goes straight up the gut and dislodging rocks onto friends below is a real possibility. Just when you think the slope is over, there’s another steep, shingly slope to scale!

By now it was damp… murky. My buddy was getting cold.

A bird’s skeleton appeared beneath the large orange triangle pointing off the scree and into the clag hugging Cattle Ridge. This grim offering epitomised our day—the saving grace being at least we’d gone up Cattle Ridge, not down!

It was a relief to be done with the climb but the waratahs were barely visible through the gloom. We pressed on, the hut only 20 minutes away. Finally, Cattle Ridge Hut (1120m) appeared. We discarded our drenched gear in the enclosed porch and stepped inside.

We never meant to overnight at Cattle Ridge—we had intended to carry on to Roaring Stag Lodge. But we were cold and tired. Cattle Ridge Hut is lovingly cared for by the New Zealand Deerstalkers Association and the promise of a quiet night with a wood burner was too good to be true.

We woke to a beautiful sunrise. Frozen water droplets on flax shone like cut crystal underneath a sapphire sky. And such is the joy of tramping—when the worst of days is redeemed by a surprising and satisfying hut… and a new dawn.

Need to know

Access: Putara Road end, 19km west of Eketahuna

Grade: Challenging. The track is technical and steep. Preparatory tramps may include Kapakapanui and Burn Hut circuits.

Accommodation: Dundas Hut ($10, 6 bunks), Cattle Ridge Hut ($10, 5 bunks).

Distance and ascent (clockwise): Putara Road end to Dundas Hut – 14km and 1,723m of climb; Dundas Hut to Cattle Ridge – 6-7km and 762m of climb; Cattle Ridge Hut to Putara Road – 12. 2km and 462m of climb.

Time: Dundas Hut to Cattle Ridge Hut – 7 hours (DOC says 5 hours).

NZ Topo 50: BN34 Shannon