In 2018, I went around the Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit as one of my first forays into tramping as an adult. Ever since, the Broken Axe Pinnacles, which I’d seen from Jumbo Hut, had been on my wishlist. But they always looked a bit too menacing, like too much for my capabilities…. Five years later, it was time to put that to the test.

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The forecast was iffy. A heavy rain warning was in place for the Tararua Range when my friend and I left Wellington on Friday afternoon, but the weather was due to clear on Saturday morning. We figured we’d head off and see how far we could go safely. I’d reassured Mum we weren’t crossing any unbridged streams, would be below the bushline on Friday, after which we could easily turn back if needed.

We left Holdsworth Campsite at 3.30pm and passed two other parties hastily leaving the mountains. Otherwise, it was just us two making our way up the easy Atiwhakatu Track.

The walk in to Atiwhakatu Hut was awesome. The bush was a lively, fluorescent green following the heavy rain. Rivulets had transformed into thundering chasms. Atiwhakatu Stream had swollen to its banks in a surging torrent, as swift and serious as the Clutha River.

At Atiwhakatu Hut we met one lone tramper, who had dropped down from the tops seeking refuge from storm-force winds earlier that afternoon. He later followed us to Jumbo Hut, bounding past like a springbok leaving us for dust—or perhaps ‘leaving us for mud’ would be more accurate!

We were at Jumbo Hut within four hours. The hut sits just above the bushline and has sweeping views of the Wairarapa Plain… sometimes. In our case, clag enveloped us like a dank, grey blanket. We were pleased to get inside and boil the billy as gloom turned to darkness.

We were woken several times overnight by the storm raging outside. Rain pelted the roof and the wind whistled through the guy ropes that tether the hut to the hillside. Lightning flashed from a murky sky. Midnight trips to the dunny through ankle-deep water were a sorry affair.

The information sign on the wall states:

Jumbo Hut was built in 1982 to replace Angle Knob Hut which was blown off its foundations and destroyed by high winds in 1980. This more sheltered site at a lower altitude (1200m) was chosen.

Department of Conservation

On Saturday morning we were still in the clag… and there was no sign of it clearing as hoped.

“We can’t go across the tops if it’s like this,” said my friend. Annoyingly, I knew she was right.

By 10am it was apparent crossing Broken Axe Pinnacles that day was out of the question. By midday we resolved to eat lunch at the hut, have another brew, and consider our options. We were itching to do something… anything!

An hour later we grabbed our packs and decided take a look up Pukeahurangi/Jumbo to assess the situation. We consoled ourselves that even if we had to return to the hut for a second night, at least there’d be spare bunks, we could light the fire, and dry off!

Miraculously, from Pukeahurangi, we saw cloud breaking in the west. All the clag was banked against the eastern side of the Tararua Range. It was moist, but mild and still, and conditions were good enough to push on to McGregor Bivouac.

We began picking our way along the ground trail to Angle Knob, a bit over an hour away. The route isn’t difficult, and the views back to Mount Holdsworth and Isabelle along this section are tremendous. You can also see out to Kāpiti Island.

Angle Knob was my first Tararua summit above 1,500m. The Tararua Range has few summits over 1,500m. That’s not a particularly lofty altitude but Tararua terrain and weather means this territory is not for the faint-hearted!

From Angle Knob we headed north to the sign that points to McGregor Bivvy. Stepping onto a spur, we soon saw a tiny orange hideout, far below, at the edge of the forest. McGregor Bivvy can be easy to miss in icky conditions but, if you follow the spur you’ll pass a tarn, about five minutes due south of the bivvy—use this for navigation.

We knew McGregor Bivvy had only two bunks…. Would there be room at the inn? There was, and we’d no need to worry. A quick look through the hut book revealed it’s used about once a month, perhaps slightly more often in summer.

The bivvy is basic but tidy and relatively cosy. I was impressed it had a candle holder for each squab for bedtime reading of the hutbook or Wilderness magazine. The small clearing outside offers good views north over Dorset Creek to Girdlestone – you can even pick out Dorset Ridge Hut – while the loo, overlooking the Waiohine catchment, is a sunset Mecca.

We woke before dawn on Sunday to see cirrocumulus clouds turn pink with the rising sun. We peeked our noses out the door.

My friend looked up at ridge. It was clear. “Yep, I’m happy with that,” she said.

Packs on, we picked our way back up through the leatherwoods and tussock to the ridge. Ten minutes up and my friend questioned me, “Did we sign the hut book”? Unfortunately not!

Meanwhile the sun shone brighter, warmer, stifling any breeze. Beanies and polar fleeces were quickly discarded. There couldn’t have been a more contrasting day compared to when we set out from Holdsworth Carpark.  

The ridge welcomed us with sweeping views. McGregor (1540m), the highest point of the circuit, provided a panorama from the Marlborough Sounds to Ruapehu in the Central North Island, and the Aorangi Mountains in South Wairarapa.

Most excitingly, McGregor offered our first close look at the Broken Axe Pinnacles. They looked a tad daunting—something rightly feared and revered.

First, we had to get to them, and coming off McGregor was surprisingly steep (follow the cairns, then sidle east to stay on the ridge). And then, the moment… the pinnacles. The fun began, followed by a melange of scrambles, bum slides, and slow-motion manoeuvres.

A marked detour leads around the eastern side of Crux, the most vertiginous pinnacle. This is a better option than crossing the ominous outcrop but nonetheless is narrow, muddy, and a bit hairy. Take care! Also beware that travel is slow – it took a good hour to cross the Broken Axe Pinnacles – and I was glad for the bluebird day, as this is not somewhere I’d wish to linger in bad conditions!

We paused under South King to enjoy the views and snack before leaving for Baldy (1325m), where we stopped for lunch. The section to Baldy offers terrific views of the Broken Axe Pinnacles Circuit, so take the time to indulge. But follow the ground trail closely—I managed to lose the cairns a few times. Perhaps it’s not a biggie because you just head down… but I was pleased to have my friend with me!

It’s also worth keeping in mind that although Baldy is just over 4km from McGregor Bivvy, this stretch poses the most difficult terrain of the trip, and makes for a solid four-hour tramp.

Less than half an hour from Baldy and you’re back into bush, heading steeply down to Atiwhakatu Saddle. From here, it’s still 11km back to Holdsworth Carpark, and the following 4km to Atiwhakatu Hut is perhaps the least enjoyable bit of the trip, with a few too many sidles around streams making for slow progress.

From Atiwhakatu Hut it’s an easy 7km down the expressway to Holdsworth Carpark. By now my legs were feeling it so I was happy for the easy walking. Being a stellar day, there were hoards heading up Atiwhakatu Valley, including the casual and curious day walkers one finds nearer the carpark.

“’Loopies’. That’s what my father calls them,” said my friend. “People who’ve driven up the road to see what’s there.”

I liked that idea. We said “hello” as we passed friendly loopies, including a couple who stopped to ask, “Where does this track go?”

And therein lies the question. How to answer, I wondered? Should I say, ‘This track goes to Atiwhakatu Hut?’ ‘This track is the start of Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit?’ ’This track leads to top of the Tararuas… and beyond?’ It was late afternoon and they weren’t carrying gear, so clearly didn’t have big plans.

“Oh, there is a nice lookout over the valley about 10 minutes upstream,” I said.

They seemed happy with that. I too was happy for completing the Broken Axe Pinnacles. Satisfaction all round.

Need to know

There are several options for completing the Broken Axe Pinnacles Circuit, but in both cases two nights is most comfortable. A typical trip would include nights in Atiwhakatu and Jumbo Huts (either clockwise or anticlockwise).

Fit trampers could do the trip with one night in McGregor Bivvy, if conditions are good. Abnormally fast and ridiculously fit trampers could do the circuit in a day.

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Access: Drive to Holdsworth Campsite at Mount Holdsworth Road end

Grade: Moderate, with a challenging sidle over Broken Axe Pinnacles

Accommodation: Jumbo Hut, $30 (bookings required); McGregor Bivouac, free (there is an outdoor fireplace but no real campsites nearby); Atiwhakatu Hut, $10 (bookings required). Book online through the Department of Conservation

Distance and ascent: 33km. Total ascent is 1,943m

Time: 2-3 days. The following are generous for advanced frontcountry trampers:

• Holdsworth Carpark to Jumbo Hut: 4 hours
• Holdsworth Carpark to McGregor Bivvy: 7 hours
• Jumbo Hut to Atiwhakatu Hut via Broken Axe Pinnacles: 8 hours
• McGregor Bivvy to Holdsworth Carpark via Pinnacles: 9-10 hours

NZ Topo 50: BP33 Featherston, BP34 Masterton