Huts and bivvies

What do you want from a hut or bivvy? Here, I rate crash pads on comfort, character, accessibility and situation. Each is given a score out of 5.

Although not a “hut bagger”, this frontcountry tramper is starting to have visited a number of huts and bivvies. So I thought I’d put together a list of those I’ve visited, to help you make decisions about which trips and digs might be the best for you.

I’ve scored each hut or bivouac on four criteria. Each criterion has a maximum of five points—so for each hut there are 20 points up for grabs in total.

  • Comfort – gimme heating, mattresses, clean loos, porches for dirty gear or nice verandas.
  • Character – I’m about history, cosiness, quirkiness, and charm.
  • Accessibility – how easy is it to get there? Points for ease of access.
  • Situation – extra kudos for sun, sweeping scenery or appealing swimming spots.

Te Ika-a-Māui | North Island

HutTotalComfort – includes heating, mattresses, clean loos, verandas…Character – history, cosiness, quirkiness, charm…Accessibility – how easy is it for the Frontcountry Tramper to get there? Points for access.Situation – kudos for sun, sweeping scenery or appealing swimming spots. Other comments
Ketetahi Hut0Destroyed in the Tongariro eruption (2012).
Waihohonu Hut135125Modern, great views of the volcanoes.
Makahu Saddle Hut50050Unloved and prone to vandalism.
Dominie Bivouac133235A cute bivvy with great views over the Hawkes Bay hinterland.
Top Gorge Hut61311A cute four-bunker, but very dark and cold in winter—the open fireplace doesn’t help.
Iron Gates Hut164444Warm and welcoming, and a good spot for spotting whio.
Toka Bivouac143524A classic “dog box” bivvy, this two-bunk beauty was recently spruced up by the Backcountry Trust but still retains a “thunderbox” (look it up!).
Burn Hut174535One of my favourites, this six-bunker looks over the Manawatū and Horowhenua hinterland.
Waiopehu Hut174445A modern, larger hut with sweeping sunset views—good for people new to tramping.
Herepai Hut134432Recently refurbished with skylights, Herepai is cute and cosy but lacks views.
Dundas Hut123315This small hut (6 bunks) has incredible views… but is prone to Tararua clag!
Cattle Ridge Hut175525A very attractive hut, with a porch and convivial common area. Five bunks.
Roaring Stag Hut185445A family favourite for years, busy Roaring Stag is characterful and accessible. Great camping and chilly river swims adjacent.
Atiwhakatu Hut185454A beautiful hut, with a bunk dorm and smaller rooms for families and snorers.
Jumbo Hut112234With excellent sunrise views, Jumbo is let down by being a bit damp and grotty.
Powell Hut165245Slick and modern, Powell is the largest hut in the Tararua Ranges. It’s perfect for first-time trampers, has gas rings and tremendous views, but perhaps lacks soul.
McGregor Bivouac143515A wonderful bivouac with wonderful views—if you’re happy to be somewhere remote.
Kapakapanui Hut144433A lovely hut on a lovely circuit, complete with a porch for removing wet gear. Six bunks.
Blue Range Hut174535An absolute fave, tiny Blue Range Hut has a picnic table and is characterised by Masterton Hospital’s old signs and historic maps from the area.
Mitre Flats Hut144334A somewhat nondescript hut, but one with lovely camping and swimming at the doorstep. A great summer option.
Totara Flats Hut185355An excellent hut for first- and second-timers, with superb camping nearby and a swing bridge for fun.
Cone Hut153543One of my faves. Constructed from tōtara slabs, quaint Cone is one of the oldest huts in the Tararua Ranges and all the more charming for it.
Tutuwai Hut154443A pleasant valley hut with a common area separating two dorms.
Turere Lodge155253A large lodge with four private rooms. Pots, pans, cutlery… everything under the sun.
Baine-Iti Hut in Remutaka Forest Park oozes character—but may not be to everyone’s desired level of comfort!

Te Waipounamu | South Island

HutTotalComfort – includes heating, mattresses, clean loos, verandas…CharacterAccessibilitySituationOther comments
Awaroa Lodge (private)205555A full 20 points but you have to pay big bucks for it (what could be cruisier than jumping off a launch onto a sandy beach to hot water showers and a restaurant?)
Torrent Bay Lodge (private)195455Another beautiful lodge, with catering and beverages. Oh, and an amazing beach.
Lake Chalice Hut154353Pleasant, but with little outlook. Walk down a 4WD for an hour and you’re there.
Lakehead Hut185355Classic Nelson Lakes design, with great swimming in Lake Rotoiti. It’s a flat 3hr walk or a short water taxi.
John Tait Hut154334Also of the Nelson Lakes design, the swimming spots in front of this hut are extremely inviting on a warm day.
Upper Travers Hut144325It’s about two-days’ walk to Upper Travers, but its alpine setting is second to none.
Sabine Hut175345A beautiful hut at the head of Lake Rotoroa. Upper bunks are nice and airy too.
West Sabine Hut133334A hot and busy hut with a cramped kitchen. The West Sabine in front is gorgeous. Classic Nelson Lakes design.
Blue Lake Hut113314Remote Blue Lake Hut is hard to reach for frontcountry trampers but a lovely place for a night.
Pororari Hut175345A beautiful hut with spectacular views back to the Paparoa Range and gas rings to boot.
Moonlight Tops Hut165335The sunsets from here are to die for, and the view over the Paparoa Escarpment is superb.
Ces Clark Hut205555A very characterful hut—top marks. It’s just a little too close to the beginning/end of the Paparoa Track.
Goat Pass Hut144424A warm and inviting stopover with three-tier bunks, a dorm for the girls and a dorm for the boys and beautiful knotted wood… such is the way with Canterbury Tramping Club of yesteryear!
Mingha Bivouac174535A gorgeous bivvy with camping outside and adjacent to the Mingha River. I’m sorry we didn’t overnight here.
Carrington Hut155334Sunny and spacious, another CTC hut with two gendered wings, each with their common area and dorms. Nice deck, great views of Carrington Peak.
Anti Crow Hut144343Small and basic, but serviceable.
Lagoon Saddle A-frame Shelter133343A shelter, but comfy enough for a night.
Lagoon Saddle Hut82231  A basic two-bunk shed.
Cameron Hut174535Amazing views in a great landscape, this climber’s hut is popular—bring a tent.
Caroline Hut (private)155415Most awesome views of Aoraki Caroline ice face and the Tasman Glacier peaks. Loos with views, too.
Rex Simpson Hut (private)175444Cushy and well-equipped, with a warm, high country feel.
Young Hut165335Surrounded by ribbonwood, this modern hut has a nice feel and sits in an impressive canyon.
Siberia Hut154245Pleasant but very busy. Excellent for viewing the night sky and fabulous swimming holes nearby.
Routeburn Falls Lodge (private)175354Pampered as private huts are, and overlooking Routeburn Flats.
Lake MacKenzie lodge (private)175345Luxury beside an exquisite lake, sometimes visited by kea.
Lake Howden Hut(17)(4)(3)(5)(5)Destroyed by a mudslide in 2020.
McKellar Lodge (private)175444Older-style lodge overlooking a good swimming hole.
Steele Creek Lodge (private)164444More on the rustic side but not uncomfortable. Bunkrooms and dorms, rather than private rooms with hot showers.
Quintin Lodge (private)165335A luxurious, sprawling lodge in the Upper Arthur.
Pompolona Lodge (private)175435The kea here are wonderful. My boots died on Mackinnon Pass and I donated them to the kea tree here at Pompolona.
Glade House (private)205555Gateway to the Milford Track (via water taxi) on the banks of the exquisite Clinton River, this place oozes history and charm.
Luxmore Hut154245Often cited as the finest hut on the Kepler due to its commanding views, this hut is undesirably large.
Iris Burn Hut164435Don’t forget to look for kiwi or for whio near Iris Burn Falls.
Moturau Hut184455My favourite Kepler Hut. Quaint, with an incredibly scenic beach.
Ōkākā Hut134324Large and lodge-like, Ōkākā has great views but some visitors get supplies helicoptered in.
Port Craig Hut154533Based around an old school house, this hut has history, character and wildlife.
Port William Hut174355Sited on a lawn in front of a stunning beach, this hut is a great introduction to Rakiura.
North Arm Hut144343A welcoming common space with generous dorms aft.
Mason Bay Hut124323Great for spotting kīwī, with nice bunk rooms. Accessible if flying in.
Coldwater Hut62121Basic, and rather dark and dingey. Accessible by water taxi.